Glossary
A Glossary
of Landscaping Terms
acid soil : A soil with a pH lower than 7.0 is an acid soil. (a soil pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline) Basically, pH is a measure of the amount of lime (calcium) contained in your soil.
acre: A measure of land totaling 43,560 square feet. A square acre is 208.75 feet on each side.
aerate: Loosening or puncturing the soil to increase water penetration.
air layering: A specialized method of plant propagation accomplished by cutting into the bark of the plant to induce new roots to form.
alkaline soil: A soil with a pH higher than 7.0 is an alkaline soil. (a soil pH lower than 7.0 is acidic) Basically, pH is a measure of the amount of lime (calcium) contained in your soil.
annuals: Plants whose life cycle lasts only one year, from seed to blooms to seed.
arboretum: A garden with a large collection of trees and shrubs cultivated for scientific or educational purposes.
aquatic plants: Plants which grow in, live in, or live on the water.
bare root: Plants offered for sale which have had all of the soil removed from their roots.
bedding plant: Plants (mainly annuals), nursery grown and suitable for growing in beds. Quick, colorful flowers.
biennial: A plant that usually only lives two years, normally producing flowers and seed the second year.
bolting: Vegetables which quickly go to flower rather than producing the food crop. Usually caused by late planting and too warm temperatures.
bonsai: The art of growing carefully trained, dwarf plants in containers.
botanical name: The Latin or “scientific” name of a plant, usually composed of two words,the genus and the species.
bract: Modified leaves growing just below a flower. Often confused with the flower itself.
bud: Early stages of development of a flower or plant growth.
bulb: The thickened underground storage organ of the group of perennials which includes daffodils and tulips.
cambium: The thin membrane located just beneath the bark of a plant.
catkin: A slender, spikelike, drooping flower cluster.
chlorophyll: The green pigment in leaves. When present and healthy usually dominates all other pigments.
complete fertilizer: A plant food which contains all three of the primary elements… nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
compost: An organic soil amendment resulting from the decomposition of organic matter.
conifer: A cone bearing tree with tiny needlelike leaves.
corm: A thickened underground stem which produces roots, leaves and flowers during the growing season.
cover crop: A crop which is planted in the absence of the normal crop to control weeds and add humus to the soil when it is plowed in prior to regular planting.
crown: The point at which a plants roots and top join. (usually at soil level)
cultivate: Process of breaking up the soil surface, removing weeds, and preparing for planting.
cuttings: A method of propagation using sections of stems, roots or leaves.
damping off: A fungus, usually affecting seedlings and causes the stem to rot off at soil level. Sterilized potting soil and careful sanitation practices usually prevent this.
dead head: The process of pinching off used or spent blooms to keep the plants well groomed and to prevent them from setting seed. This will promote continued bloom.
dibble stick: A pointed tool used to make holes in the soil for seeds, bulbs, or young plants.
dethatch: Process of removing dead stems that build up beneath lawn grasses.
dividing: The process of splitting up plants, roots and all that have began to get bound together. This will make several plants from one plant, and usually should be done to mature perennials every 3 to 4 years.
dormancy: The yearly cycle in a plants life when growth slows and the plant rests. Fertilizing should be withheld when a plant is in dormancy.
double digging: Preparing the soil by systematically digging an area to the depth of two shovels.
double flower: A flower with many overlapping petals which gives it a very full appearance.
drip line: The circle which would exist if you drew a line below the tips of the outer most branches of a tree or plant.
epiphyte: A plant which grows on another plant but gets its nourishment from the air and rainfall. They do no damage to the host plant.
erosion: The wearing away, washing away, or removal of soil by wind, water or man.
espalier: Process of training a tree or shrub so its branches grow in a flat pattern.
evergreen: A plant which never loses all of it’s leaves at one time.
eye: An undeveloped bud growth which will ultimately produce new growth.
evaporation: Process by which water returns to the air. Higher temperatures speed the process of evaporation.
fertilizer: Organic or inorganic plant foods which may be either liquid or granular used to amend the soil in order to improve the quality or quantity of plant growth.
flat: A shallow box or tray used to start cuttings or seedlings.
foliar feeding: Fertilizer applied in liquid form to the plants foliage in a fine spray.
forcing: The process of hastening a plants growth to maturity or bloom.
frond: The term used to describe the branch and leaf structure of a fern or members of the palm family.
frost: The condensation and freezing of moisture in the air. Tender plants will suffer extensive damage or die when exposed to frost.
germinate: The process of the sprouting of a seed.
girdling: The choking of a branch by a wire or other material, most often in the stems of woody plants that have been tied to tightly to a stake or support.
grafting: The uniting of a short length of stem of one plant onto the root stock of a different plant. This is often done to produce a hardier or more disease resistant plant.
ground cover: A group of plants usually used to cover bare earth and create a uniform appearance.
growing season: The number of days between the average date of the last killing frost in spring and the first killing frost in fall. Vegetables and certain plants require a minimum number of days to reach maturity, so be sure your growing season is long enough.
hardening off: The process of gradually acclimatizing greenhouse or indoor grown plants to outdoor growing conditions.
hardpan: The impervious layer of soil or clay lying beneath the topsoil.
hardiness: The ability of a plant to withstand low temperatures or frost, without artificial protection.
heading back: Cutting an older branch or stem back to a stub or twig.
heeling in: Temporarily setting a plant into a shallow trench and covering the roots with soil to provide protection until it is ready to be permanently planted.
herbaceous: Describes a plant with soft rather than woody tissues.
honeydew: The sticky secretion produced by sucking insects such as aphids.
humus: The brown or black organic part of the soil resulting from the partial decay of leaves and other matter.
hybrid: The offspring of two plants of different species or varieties of plants. Hybrids are created when the pollen from one kind of plant is used to pollinate and entirely different variety, resulting in a new plant altogether.
hydroponics: The science of growing plants in mineral solutions or liquid, instead of in soil.
lath: In gardening, an overhead structure of evenly spaced slats of wood or other materials used to create shade.
layering: A method of propagation, by which a branch of a plant is rooted while still attached to the plant by securing it to the soil with a piece of wire or other means.
leaching: The removal or loss of excess salts or nutrients from soil. The soil around over fertilized plants can be leached clean by large quantities of fresh water used to ‘wash’ the soil. Areas of extremely high rainfall sometimes lose the nutrients from the soil by natural leaching.
leaf mold: Partially decomposed leaf matter, used as a soil amendment.
loam: A rich soil composed of clay, sand, and organic matter.
manure: Organic matter, excreted by animals, which is used as a soil amendment and fertilizer. Green manures are plant cover crops which are tilled into the soil.
microclimate: Variations of the climate within a given area, usually influenced by hills, hollows, structures or proximity to bodies of water. (i.e. when it’s raining at your house, and the sun is shining on the other side of the street)
micro nutrients: Mineral elements which are needed by some plants in very small quantities. If the plants you are growing require specific ‘trace elements’ and they are not available in the soil, they must be added.
mulch: Any loose material placed over the soil to control weeds and conserve soil moisture. Usually this is a coarse organic matter, such as leaves, clippings or bark, but plastic sheeting and other commercial products can also be used.
native plant: Any plant that occurs and grows naturally in a specific region or locality.
naturalize: To plant randomly, without a pattern. The idea is to create the effect that the plants grew in that space without man’s help, such as you would find wild flowers growing.
node: The part of a stem from which a leaf or new branch starts to grow.
organic gardening: The method of gardening utilizing only materials derived from living things. (i.e. composts and manures)
organic material: Any material which originated as a living organism. (i.e. peat moss, compost, manure)
parasitic plant: A plant which lives on, and acquires it’s nutrients from another plant. This often results in declined vigor or death of the host plant.
peat moss: The partially decomposed remains of various mosses. This is a good, water retentive addition to the soil, but tends to add the acidity of the soil pH.
perennial: A nonwoody plant which grows and lives for more than two years. Perennials usually produce one flower crop each year, lasting anywhere from a week to a month or longer.
perlite: A mineral, which when expanded by a heating process forms light granuals. Perlite is a good addition to container potting mixes, to promote moisture retention while allowing good drainage.
pest: Any insect or animal which is detrimental to the health and well being of plants or other animals.
photosynthesis: The internal process by which a plant turns sunlight into growing energy. The formation of carbohydrates in plants from water and carbon dioxide, by the action of sunlight on the Chlorophyll within the leaves.
pinching back: Utilizing the thumb and forefinger to nip back the very tip of a branch or stem. Pinching promotes branching, and a bushier, fuller plant
pistil: The seed-bearing organ of a flower, consisting of the ovary, stigma, and style.
pollination: The transfer of pollen from the stamen (male part of the flower) to the pistil (female part of the flower), which results in the formation of a seed. Hybrids are created when the pollen from one kind of plant is used to pollinate and entirely different variety, resulting in a new plant altogether.
potting soil: A soil mixture designed for use in container gardens and potted plants. Potting mixes should be loose, light, and sterile.
propagation: Various methods of starting new plants ranging from starting seeds to identical clones created by cuttings or layering.
pruning: The cutting and trimming of plants to remove dead or injured wood, or to control and direct the new growth of a plant.
pH: Basically, pH is a measure of the amount of lime (calcium) contained in your soil. A soil with a pH lower than 7.0 is an acid soil, a soil pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline soil. Soil pH can be tested with an inexpensive test kit.
rhizome: A modified plant stem which grows horizontally, under the surface of the soil. New growth then emerges from different points of the rhizome. Irises and some lawn grasses are rhizome plants.
root ball: The network of roots along with the attached soil, of any given plant.
rootbound: A condition which exists when a potted plant has outgrown its container. The roots become entangled and matted together, and the growth of the plant becomes stunted. When repotting, loosen the roots on the outer edges of the root ball, to induce them to once again grow outward.
rooting hormone: A powder of liquid growth hormone, used to promote the development of roots on a cutting.
runner: A slender stem growing out from the base of some plants, which terminates with a new offset plant. The new plant may be severed from the parent after it has developed sufficient roots.
relative humidity: The measurement of the amount of moisture in the atmosphere.
scion: A short length of stem, taken from one plant which is then grafted onto the rootstock of another plant.
single flower: A flower having only a minimum number of petals for that variety of plant.
soil pH: Basically, pH is a measure of the amount of lime (calcium) contained in your soil. A soil with a pH lower than 7.0 is an acid soil, a soil pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline soil. Soil pH can be tested with an inexpensive test kit.
sphagnum: A bog moss which is collected and composted. Most peat moss is composed primarily of sphagnum moss. This moss is also packaged and sold in a fresh state, and used for lining hanging baskets and air layering.
spore: The reproductive cell of ferns, fungi and mosses. (these plants do not produce seeds)
staking: The practice of driving a stake into the ground next to, and as a support for a plant. When attaching the plant to the stake, be sure that it is tied loosely so it doesn’t strangle the stem. When staking a potted plant, the stake should be set into the planter before the plant is added.
sucker: A growth originating from the rootstock of a grafted plant, rather than the desired part of the plant. Sucker growth should be removed, so it doesn’t draw energy from the plant.
systemic: A chemical which is absorbed directly into a plants system to either kill feeding insects on the plant, or to kill the plant itself.
tap root: The main, thick root growing straight down from a plant. (not all plants have tap roots)
tender plants: Plants which are unable to endure frost or freezing temperatures.
tendril: The twisting, clinging, slender growth on many vines, which allows the plant to attach themselves to a support or trellis.
thatch: The layer of dead stems that builds up under many lawn grasses. Thatch should be removed periodically to promote better water and nutrient penetration into the soil.
thinning: Removing excess seedlings, to allow sufficient room for the remaining plants to grow. Thinning also refers to removing entire branches from a tree or shrub, to give the plant a more open structure.
topiary: A method of pruning and training certain plants into formal shapes such as animals.
topsoil: The top layer of native soil. This term may also apply to good quality soil sold at nurseries and garden centers.
transpiration: The release of moisture through the leaves of a plant.
transplanting: The process of digging up a plant and moving it to another location.
tuber: A flat underground stem which stores food and plant energy and from which a plant grows. (e.g. Dahlias)
variegated: Leaves which are marked with multiple colors.
vermiculite: The mineral ‘mica’ which has been heated to the point of expansion. A good addition to container potting mixes, vermiculite retains moisture and air within the soil.
Source: Curb Appeals
Landscaping
Curb Appeal Tip: Do Some Landscaping
Flowers and bushes greatly improve a home’s curb appeal. Also flowers and bushes can hide parts of your home that aren’t so beautiful. You can either do this yourself or you can hire someone. Either way, this is a step that will improve your curb appeal and create market value in the process. If you do this step yourself, create flower beds on either side of your front entrance and either fill them with flowers or bushes. Potential buyers may love bushes, because they are a great place to hang Christmas lights and they provide privacy. If you hire someone, be prepared to pay hundreds or even a couple thousand for your yard to look amazing.
Source: Curb Appeals
Books
Choosing Plants for the Landscape
Here are some books to help you select and grow the most suitable plants for your landscape.
Kitchen gardeners will love the revised edition of “The Moosewood Restaurant Kitchen Garden” by David Hirsch from Ten Speed Press. This features 70 scrumptious recipes along with everything you need to know about selecting the best edible flowers, herbs, and veggies for your garden. For each of the 75 plants, the author explains the different varieties that are available. He focuses specific attention on heirlooms. He explains how to plant, harvest, and prepare them in the kitchen. In addition, there are chapters on kitchen garden design and gardening techniques. This is illustrated with beautiful line drawings.
“The Tree Book” by Jeff Meyer from Scriber has become a classic. The author focuses on over 60 kinds of trees and explains how to choose the best ones for your particular situation. In this easy to use guide, the trees are organized alphabetically by common name. For each, you’ll find a complete description, and details on its features and cultural needs. For quick reference, there are all sorts of handy tables, charts, and lists. There is also a chapter on propagation. This is illustrated with line drawings.
For shady landscapes, the best book by far is “Making the Most of Shade” by Larry Hodgson from Rodale. The plant directory features profiles of the 200 best herbaceous, grasses, and climbing plants for shade. These feature full details with growing tips, care, their landscape performance, and related species. For quick reference, use the sidebar listing the description, garden use, and the cultural requirements. Part I explains how to create shade gardens, how to choose suitable plants, and how to care for them. This is illustrated with gorgeous color photos.
“Landscape Plants for the Gulf and South Atlantic Coasts” by Robert J. Black et al from the University Press of Florida is an invaluable regional guide. It explains the factors to consider when you are choosing plants for the area. The authors focus specifically on salinity since this is a potential problem in the area. This is one of the few books I know that tells you exactly how to choose healthy plants at nurseries and garden centers. Readers will learn how to plant properly, get them established, and care for them. Most of the book is devoted to the plant directory with over 400 plants. For each, there is a color photo, and description along with details on its cultural needs and origins.
Landscaping
Shrubs for carefree landscaping
Choosing Shrubs
Shrubs are among the most useful and colorful group of landscape plants. Choosing shrubs isn’t always easy. Most garden centers and retail stores will have the most common shrubs available. Don’t be content with the ordinary. Some of the newer and the unusual shrubs have a lot to offer. These will make your landscape more interesting.
Are you tired of azaleas that bloom in the spring and look like green globs the rest of the year? If so, look for Encore azaleas. These wonderful plants were hybridized by Robert Edward Lee of Louisiana. He created these repeat bloomers, which is very unusual for azaleas. The Encore include the Autumn Series, which is perfectly suited to the Carolinas. In the series are eight different multiple-blooming azaleas. After flowering in the spring, the shoots produce new flower buds that will open in mid-summer.
The weigelas were once thought of as very old-fashioned shrubs. That was before Wine & Roses was released. This award wining plant has lovely dark-burgundy-purple foliage that seems to shimmer like wine. The leaves retain their beautiful color, creating seasonal interest throughout the summer. Midnight Wine is similar.
A very unusual Japanese holly, called Sky Pencil, is now available. The name describes Sky Pencil’s exotic shape. You may have thought you didn’t have space for a Japanese holly, but this one will prove you do. It grows to ten feet in height but is only two to three feet wide. This evergreen is multi-stemmed, and needs no pruning. Use it as a specimen plant or as a hedge. With its formal shape, it is great for foundation plantings. Like most Japanese hollies, Sky Pencil prefers a slightly acid soil. This wonderful plant was discovered in the wild in Japan. It came to the attention of scientists from the National Arboretum visiting Japan during a plant-collecting trip. They propagated it and made plants available to
The crape myrtles are one of my favorite groups of plants. Some of the better ones are mildew resistant. These beauties were bred by Dr. Donald R. Egolf of the National Arboretum. Their parentage includes seed-grown plants from Japan, which were immune to mildew. Whether crape myrtle is a tree or shrub depends on the size and how you grow it. The smaller ones like Tonto can be grown as shrubs. It is about twelve feet high and about as wide, has deep red blooms that last for several months. Its foliage becomes maroon in the autumn. Acoma, only about ten to twelve feet in height can have an even greater width. Its white blossoms last for several months. The branches can be almost weeping in form. The foliage assumes purplish red tones in the fall.
The loropetalums are a rarely used group of shrubs. Perhaps part of the problem is the name. Unlike most plants, it lacks a common name. Its Latin name, Loropoetalum chinense, indicates its origins as it is from China. Loropetalum are outstanding broadleaf evergreens. The newer introductions tend to have maroon foliage and pink blossoms. Examples would include Burgundy and Razzleberri with pink blossoms. It can be used as either a ground cover or shrub. Its ground cover-like growth habit means it could be used en masse as a ground cover. Yet it does produce upright arching shoots as well. So it could be used as a flowering hedge. Given good growing conditions, loropetalums can get quite tall. Loropetalums have such a wonderful shape that it rarely ever needs pruning. If using them for a hedge, I would give them plenty of room so they never needed any pruning at all.
If you’re looking for a formal hedge, use something like cherry laurel or podocarpus, also called Japanese yew. Naturally the Leyland cypress is suitable for hedges, but some experts are concerned it might become overused. This could then lead to problems.
Whether you choose the abelias, azaleas, or loropetalums, shrubs have an important place in the home landscape.
Source: Curb Appeals